It’s the middle of the night. I hear a thud outside my tent on the deck. Right on the other side of the canvas. Terrified and thrilled, I’m half awake and call the reception. Oh that’s only a hippo!
5am, a gentle call from outside the tent. A flashlight to signal to us that it’s morning. She’s here with hot coffee and some cookies to wake us for our early morning game drive! The wild is in my blood. I’m oddly at home when I’m in the Mara. There’s something about Africa that feels like a homecoming. There’s a weird sense of calm when your eye to eye what a lion. You’re probably thinking I’m crazy. Spoiler alert, maybe i am? But Africa and Safaris have my heart. So if you want to go wild for a little while, see the big five or loose yourself in the forest, here’s my guide to the best safari in the Masai Mara.
The National Park vs The Conservancies
The Mara national park is ofc where the Mara river lies. During migration, this is where you want to be because all those river crossings are happening here. Expect lots of wild cats, maybe even a hunt if you’re lucky? The downside though is for the photographers among you, you can’t off road so sometimes the wild life is a bit far.
The conservancies owned by the local Masai on the other hand are more lenient with the off-roading. Although, they’re very particular about the number of cars around cheetahs and leopards. There’s usually more predators in the conservancies due to all the grasslands and Masai cows that graze.
More open grass= more herbivores= more predators.
Expect to be awoken at the crack of dawn with some coffee. You’re not going to miss your tea because Kenyan coffee is addictive i kid you not. If youre in an unfenced camp (they’re better!) you’ll have an armed Masai escort you to your vehicle an open 4wd and the guide will probably give you a warm blanket and a hot water bottle to stay warm. Everyday is different. One day we saw a pride with 10 lion cubs, the other? We were lucky to see a river crossing! It’s all unpredictable but the guides communicate with each other via radio so youre very likely to see the best of the day!
You’re usually back to camp for a warm breakfast or you could opt for a longer drive with a picnic breakfast. Lunch is usually a 3 course very delicious affair! Think wines, appetisers, bread, entrées the works! Once you’re all fed and watered, its time for a dip in the pool, a relaxing massage or a siesta. By late afternoon the predators are waking up from their snooze and if youre lucky you might see them in action!
We saw the whole food chain on the last day and we were shook. Cheetah killing, lion stealing, hyenas fight the whole drama! Sundowners were the best! You’re close to the wildlife , watching the sunset, a glass of wine in hand. Back at camp, it’s time for a fire pit, more drinks and some appetisers. It’s fun to chat with others from the camp , usually from all over the world and discuss your sightings from the day and talking about different cultures. Followed of course by a 3 course a candle light dinner. You’re escorted by an armed guard back to your tent where you sleep blissfully to the sounds of the wild.
The camp we stayed at last was Little Governor’s which is by a marsh full of hippos! They pop out at night for a meal of lush grass. I had one sitting on my porch and I even called security and all they did was laugh at me :) But hey, we urban ones learn!
What happens on Safari ?
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Warm Bush breakfasts are a hot favourite
Hot air balloon safaris
Masai villages
Walking safaris
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Governers and Little Governers for their location
Angama mara for the luxury
Cottars 1920s Camp
Great Plains - Their conservation efforts are insane!
Elewana Camp collection
Kicheche
Hemingways
Olare Mara Kempinski
One and only
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Usually if youre flying into the Mara you have a 15kg limit on those Cesna flights.
Here’s my quintessential packing list.
2 pairs of shorts
2 pairs of pants/jeans
T-shirts/tops
A jacket
A sweater
Insect repellant
iPad
A good book
Your Camera!
Makeup
Medicines
Safaris are an adventure and you never know what’s around the corner! You could be surprised pleasantly or not so pleasantly! One day you’re stuck in wet mud and have another car tow you out, and the next minute youre in front of a pride of baby lion cubs!